Tokyo’s a traveler’s dream. It’s clean. It’s fly. It’s overflowing with modern conveniences. And over the past few years, the city’s rising global popularity has intensified, making the destination—that was once closed off to the rest of the world—a top pick for Black and Brown travelers. In October 2022, Japan lifted a majority of its strict entry requirements. Americans can finally visit the country without a visa, which is likely why our social feeds have been drizzled with our favorite creatives stepping through Tokyo and neighboring Kyoto, Osaka, and Shizuoka, home to Mount Fuji, Japan’s highest and most iconic mountain.
Made up of 23 districts, each distinctively unique, no matter your travel style, there’s a vibe for you in Tokyo.
I visited with my partner for the first time in October 2023. He’s basically a local. He’s been over a dozen times and was the perfect person to uncover and indulge in next-level, off-the-beaten-path experiences in the largest and one of the most populated cities in the world. We moved from ward to ward easily by e-bike, a fun and efficient way to take the town. But more on that later.
From narrow neon alleyways flaunting the best hole-in-the-wall eateries and cozy jazz kissas spinning Curtis Mayfield and Rufus on vinyl to underground whiskey bars and an evolved art, food, and hotel scene designed with rooftop pools hidden in plain sight, Tokyo is smooth. It’s one of those destinations where if you know, you know. Yes, the language is a barrier, and the voyage from the U.S. is long, but the spirit of Japan and the warmth of its people make it worth it.
Travelers of color need to go to Japan. Explore the landscape. Experience the culture—one of the oldest and most revered in the world—with honor, family, and tradition at its core. Interact with the people. My most memorable moments during our trip were random and unrehearsed and involved connecting with natives in an authentic way. We learned slang among locals and ate homemade carrot cake at Paddlers Coffee in Shibuya. We got fitted for Grillz by Japanese jeweler Tetsuya Akiyama. The man responsible for ASAP Rocky’s custom mouth bling has been running Grillz Jewelz in the Okachimachi district for 17 years. We sat with expats-turned-Japanese citizens in the backstreets of Harajuku for what felt like hours, dissecting what it’s like to be Black in Japan.
Get lost in Tokyo. And when you’re done, board the bullet train to Kyoto for Imperial Palaces, Geisha culture, and 500-year-old Kaiseki cuisine. Thank me later.
Stay
Trunk Hotel Yoyogi Park
When we return to Tokyo, Trunk Hotel in Yoyogi Park will be our base. The latest outpost of the chic Trunk trilogy is the largest, with 20 guest rooms, five suites, and a heated rooftop infinity pool that offers panoramic views of Yoyogi Park—one of the most enchanting parks in Tokyo. Trunk’s ethos is deeply rooted in local culture, which means the atmosphere is intimate with an elevated edge, the design is minimal and peaceful, and the call to action to unwind and indulge is undoubtedly understood.
Hoshinoya Tokyo
Located in Otemachi, one of the city’s financial centers, Hoshinoya Tokyo feels like a traditional Japanese ryokan with the fixings of a contemporary luxury hotel. If you’re looking for an enriching experience with next-level hospitality, this is it. Every tatami-lined floor functions as a private ryokan with six rooms and an ochanoma—a central lounge with tea and sweets readily on deck. Don’t miss the rooftop Onsen, traditional tea ceremony, Nippon Cuisine, and 4-course Japanese breakfast.
Eat
Curry Up
Serving up Japanese-style and Indian-style curry, Curry Up, Nigo’s hole-in-the-wall eatery named by Pharrell, is a no-frills comfort food haven. Try a two-in-one combo plate with butter chicken, beef, keema, or go straight veg.
Uogashi Nihon-Ichi
Experiencing a standing sushi bar is essential while you’re in Tokyo and Uogashi Nihon-Ichi is the one. If there’s a line outside, join it. The chefs are quick, the fish is fresh, and there’s an English menu on deck, so you can order with speed and confidence.
Tora
The atmosphere is cozy and chill. The dishes are tasty and creative. The owner/chef is humble and incredibly kind. Go for the food and drink, but stick around for the music. The Internet, Erykah Badu, and ASAP Ferg were in rotation while we dined.
Palava Hut
Confession: I first tried jollof rice at Palava Hut, a West African joint in Minato City. Believe the hype, because the rice is right. As is the chicken, fish and plantain. It was all made-to-order in a curtained-off kitchen by the sweet chef, Nora, a kind soul with an even kinder smile.
EXPERIENCE
Grillz Jewelz
Even if you have zero interest in owning custom bottoms, tops, or fangs, pull up on Tetsuya Akiyama, owner and creator of Grillz Jewelz. The gallery wall, case of mouthpieces, and stack of books showcasing the breadth and depth of his work make it tough not to tap in. Plus, Akiyama is mad cool.
I walked into his shop skeptical about getting grillz and left two hours later with an order placed. It’s worth noting that it takes at least three months for your bling to be ready. And yes, he ships internationally, so don’t stress.
Luup Electric Bikes
If you’re looking for a fun and efficient way to move from ward to ward with ease, look to Luup. The popular micromobility company has delegated parking spots set up around the city, with electric scooters and bikes up for grabs. Luup’s app allows riders to check ports in real time to reserve an available bike or scooter in a location closest and most convenient for them. I highly recommend downloading the app before you depart for Japan.
EXPLORE
With centuries-old temples and imperial palaces, quaint cobblestone streets, Zen gardens, vibrant markets, and hip shopping complexes, Kyoto preserves Old Japan while openly embracing the new. Geisha are one of the most sought-after sights in Kyoto. Spotting one around town is rare but not impossible; however, experiencing Kaiseki Cuisine is equally as neat. The traditional multi-course dinner, consisting of small dishes with different tastes and textures, dates back to the 16th century.
Eat at Toki and Honke Owariya. Experience Nishiki Market, Fushimi Inari-Taisha and Kinkau-ji—Kyoto’s famed Golden Pavilion. Rest at Hotel The Mitsui and spend a full day indulging in their award-winning spa. Reserve a private Onsen and enjoy natural spring bathing in complete privacy.
